Lively Mukalla Market

Before Windows Vista was officially released, one could get its pirated copies in Mukalla. And very cheap. Just as one can easily get pirated copies of other computer programs; and audio and video CDs. Fake pharmaceutical products, are also in plenty; mainly from India. Cheap too, and risky to use; but then - many people depend on them for treatment; as most people can't afford the very expensive Western made medicines. Thinking of this: Western pharmaceutical companies, and technology companies - for that matter, are the most greedy; at times one is grateful for the pirated products and cheap medicines available. And then there are the fake popular perfumes, cosmetics and designer clothes; all very cheap. Many times, it's hard or even impossible to differentiate the fake from the original. The fakes too, can be as good as the original; thanks to China and India. And Dubai. As a transit point.

Yemen produces most of its vegetable and fruit needs and even exports some. The best Yemeni produced fruits and vegetables, according to me, are: melons, cantaloupes, dates, oranges (sweeter than the imported ones), tomatoes, onions and garlic. Still, Yemen imports plenty of fruits and some vegetables. Visiting any fruit or vegetable market or stall here, one would be surprised at the variety; even the kiwi fruit is available, and plums; and a variety of pears and apples. I used to be surprised at the freshness of all these fruits, till I found out that almost all were hauled in by chiller trucks from Sana'a (for local) and Dubai (for the imported ones). This serves us well here; but then, on the other hand - truck loads and truckloads of our precious fish is being hauled out too; to the neighboring countries and further.

I have never seen any where else, the kind of the many variety of fish as I have seen here; and much cheaper than any place I ever been to. All fresh. Having a choice of all this fresh, cheap fish, has always been one of the best sides of living in Mukalla. But now, with all these truck loads of fish going out and all the fishing ships out there in the sea - I don't see this lasting much longer. So far, fresh fish has had the fastest price rise of all foods here; and there's no stopping it. Worse, the way the fishing is being done, with very little control as it is - it won't be long, before there won't be much fish to catch; or sell and buy. Which brings in to mind: Yemen's oil production won't last much longer; Fifteen, twenty years more? May be. And then, without oil and the fish - what then?

Some how, Mukalla will survive. And Mukalla's market will continue being as colorful, vibrant and robust.

Comments

Anonymous said…
I have heard alot about Mukalla, someone was said that it was as if they were still in Mombasa or maybe even better. It is one of the places in Yemen that I would really love to visit. SF
Jed Carosaari said…
I remember in Derb Ghallif, the black market of Casablanca and indeed all of Morocco, you could get VCDs of The Passion a week before it came out in U.S. theatres.

I think it's part of the free trade economy, rather than fair trade- areas that produce their own goods don't get to see them, but soon the poor of the city can't even afford what they produce.
Anonymous said…
SF - Mukalla is very much like Mombasa but growing much, much faster and getting cleaner and cleaner and better served with better infarstructure and civil services, than Mombasa. After, 1980, Mombasa, like Nairobi, sank in to disorganisation and dirt; and still sinking. Thanks to Moi. Aden, on the West would interest you too; it's very much like Mombasa too. Only, Mombasa is much, much greeener than both.

Abdul Habib - Globalisation and 'free trade'! That's why, soon, fish will run out here. Without affordable food, who needs all the cheap technolgy products and such.
nzm said…
Omar: you make me want to move to Yemen! :-)

The fish supply issue is becoming a problem in the UAE. There was an article in Gulf News a few weeks ago which quoted UAE fisherman as saying that there was less fish in the Gulf now.

I put it down to 2 things:
1. Over-fishing to meet demand
2. The construction of the Palm and World islands is destroying fish breeding grounds due to the boats sucking up the sea bottom to make into islands.

Conservation and catch restrictions/quotas need to happen now.

I don't mind paying extra for fish if I know that the limited supply is due to protection of the fish.

I would prefer this to not being able to buy fish at all in the years to come.

Then again, I much prefer to catch my own fish, rather than buy it. At least I only keep what I need!
Anonymous said…
NZM - yes, fish is plenty here and cheap; and what a variety! But if this over-fishing continues and as carelessly as this, there won't be much fish to catch soon. Some of the fish here too, ends in the Emirates; maybe you are buying Yemeni fish without realising it.

It's sad about, but my region is becoming too materialistic and further from nature.

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